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BLACK CAPS PAR EXCELLENCE
For the Second-course, or for Dessert
Cut a dozen fine Norfolk biffins in two without paring them, scoop out the cores, and fill the cavities with thin strips of fresh lemon-rind and with candied orange-peel. Cover the bottom of a flat shallow tin with a thick layer of fine pale brown sugar, press the two halves of each apple together, and place them closely in the tin; pour half a bottle of raisin or of any other sweet wine over them, and be careful to moisten the tops of all; sift white sugar thickly on them, and set the tin into a very hot oven at first, that the outsides of the apple may catch or become black; then draw them to the mouth of the oven, and bake them gently until they are soft quite through. The Norfolk biffin answers for this dish far better than any other kind of apple, but the winter queening, and some few firm sorts beside, can be used for it with fair success. These for variety may be cored without being divided and filled with orange marmalade. The black caps served hot, as a second-course dish, are excellent.
Norfolk biffins, 12; rinds fresh lemons, 1 to 2; candied orange-rind, 2 to 3 oz.; pale brown sugar, ¾ lb.; raisin or other wine, ½ bottle; little sifted sugar, ¾ to 1 hour, or more.
Obs.- The apples dressed as above resemble a rich confection, and will remain good for ten days or a fortnight; sometimes much longer even. The receipt is an admirable one.
The above recipe is from “Modern Cookery for Private Families” Eliza Acton, 1845.
NOTE: Eliza Acton is right - it is absolutely delicious!
An earlier similar recipe appears in “The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy” Hannah Glasse 1747. This uses lemon juice and orange flower water rather than raisin wine. It also omits the lemon zest and candied orange peel. Jane Grigson in her “Fruit Book” 1982, suggests using orange flower water or rosewater rather than raisin wine, along with lemon or orange juice and rind.
The best apple to use is Norfolk Beefing or Biffin, an extremely hard apple. Another apple which would work well is Blenheim Orange, although it would need less cooking time.
For “raisin wine” I used an Australian liqueur sauvignon blanc which was really dark and rich. The sticky syrup gelled when cold. A non-alcoholic alternative is a pressed apple juice ---- I have successfully used a Russet juice.
To scoop out the cores I used a serrated grapefruit spoon.
Any combination of candied mixed peel would also work.
It is better to use an ovenproof serving dish to bake the apples in than a tin (the acid reacts with the tin).
The baking instructions Eliza Acton gives are not for regulated modern ovens. I started mine off at 200°C / Gas 6 for around 20 minutes, then dropped the temperature to 180°C / Gas 4, and cooked until the apples were tender when pierced with a skewer.
SAUTÉED APPLES
This is a good garnish for roast pork or feathered game.
Dessert apples - they need to hold their shape when cooked. Choose a variety with a well-coloured skin if possible (Try Barnack Beauty, Rosy Blenheim, Queen Cox)
50g / 2 oz unsalted butter
4 tablespoons Cider Brandy or The Somerset Pomona Aperitif
Prepare the apples immediately before cooking. Do not peel the apples. Cut them into quarters and remove the core. Slice each quarter into 3.
Melt the butter in a large heavy-based frying pan. Add the apple slices and cook, turning from time to time, until golden brown and tender (test with the point of a sharp knife). Place the apple slices on warmed individual plates or a serving dish. Pour the brandy or aperitif into the pan to deglaze it. Let it bubble briefly and pour over the apple slices.
VARIATION: This can easily be turned into a dessert. Take 1 apple per person. After adding the alcohol, add a tablespoon of dark muscovado sugar and stir. Pour over the apple slices and serve immediately with Greek yoghurt.
Monica Askay
February 2019